The Canadian Press: Review of the Malandrino Fall 2010 Collection

02.25.10

Catherine Malandrino, using a different vantage point, brings a new eye to Fashion Week

By Samantha Critchell of the Canadian Press

NEW YORK — The earth, up close, is awash with colour – especially in a city with neon signs, taxicabs and a healthy accessories business. But from the distant view that fashion designer Catherine Malandrino used as her vantage point in her fall collection, the landscape is dominated browns and blacks of remote places and, of course, the blue of the oceans.

It’s a rugged terrain filled with exotic creatures, and those seemed to be Malandrino’s muses for clothes that were powerful and primal as they were put on display at the Chelsea Art Museum on Sunday during New York Fashion Week.

With hard-shell heels on their feet that mimicked hooves, models wore sweaters with armourlike embroidery, goat-hair vests, crocodile leggings and a highly desirable wraparound leather bolero. Hardy, warm furs also had their place.

But amid the tough exteriors, there were often fine, delicate details, including a soft cashmere, draped-front flower cardigan, and a lovely, ladylike plisse dress in crinkled velvet.

If you imagine the world as seen from above, Malandrino said in her notes, the contrasts become focal points. “Once viewed from this new perspective, it became natural that the woman who inhabits this world must simultaneously embody strength, ease and raw femininity.”

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